Far less well-known or visited than many other cities in the UK, but a real gem.
It’s the 12th most-visited city in Britain for overnight stays, according to official tourism data — below Brighton, Oxford, Bristol and Bath. To me, this means a lot of people are missing out on what is one of the finest places in the UK to live and spend time.
This has my home city for nearly 30 years and I can’t think of another I’d rather live in. London has its eye-popping palaces, Manchester has its world-famous football stadiums, Oxford and Cambridge have their iconic universities. But what Cardiff lacks in headline-grabbing tourist sites it makes up for in culture and pretty, atmospheric suburbs where you can live like a local regardless of where you’re from. It is also one of the greenest cities in the UK – and one of the most walkable. This is why I think Cardiff is a match for any city in the UK and a totally unique experience.
One of Europe’s greenest cities
Cardiff is consistently ranked among the greenest cities in the UK and Europe and has also topped a Europe-wide poll on the best cities for families with young children to live.
The jewel in the crown of Cardiff’s green spaces is the vast green space that starts in the heart of the city centre and takes you all the way to the outskirts of the city and beyond. You can walk from Cardiff Castle in the city centre for six miles, sticking close to the River Taff most of the way, to Castell Coch outside the city without leaving a park or nature reserve (you can even explore a secret overgrown graveyard on the way). That’s well over twice the length of New York City’s Central Park. The city’s Bute Park and the adjoining Llandaff Fields alone make up for 2.3 miles of this, around the same length as the world famous feature in Manhattan.
In spring, the blossom trees here are alive with whites and pinks, while in autumn they’ll pop with rusty reds and oranges. In summer, you can sit down and watch a game of cricket taking place, or even have a game of padel or tennis yourself in excellently-maintained courts.
Other gems are Cefn Onn Park, a grade 2-listed historic park on the city’s northern fringes which is an oasis of calm full of native and exotic trees set within an intimate valley. Or there’s Forest Farm on the banks of the Taff, where habitats include woodland, scrub, hay meadow, ponds and marshland and you can still see sections of the historic former Glamorganshire Canal and the restored Melingriffith waterpump, both relics of the city’s industrial past.
On the city’s western edge is one of the world’s most unique museums: St Fagans National Museum of History is like a walk through a rural village in which one or two buildings from recent centuries have survived. The buildings here have all been dismantled from their original locations across Wales and painstakingly rebuilt here. You can have a pint in the rebuilt Vulcan pub.
There’s a 17th century farmhouse from mid Wales, an 18th century chapel from rural west Wales and a terrace of six workers’ homes, each dated to a different year between 1805 and 1985. It’s a stunning place, free to enter and easily reachable by bus.
Walkable
Given its abundance of green space, it’s no surprise that Cardiff is also a very walkable city. But it’s not just the parks and nature reserves that are a joy to walk in and around. From the city centre, it will take you about half an hour along a very simple route to walk to the seafront Cardiff Bay and you could easily spend a day exploring that area on foot. What is today known as Cardiff Bay was previously known as the Docks or Tiger Bay and is the reason the city exists in its current form. Cardiff was a small town before the industrial revolution, when it exploded in size and population to become not just the biggest town in Wales but the biggest coal port in the world.
But by the 1980s it had become a neglected wasteland of derelict docks, mudflats and poor housing. A decade on and Europe’s largest waterfront development in the 1990s created a barrage, a huge freshwater lake and complex of restaurants, shops and bars which now make it a major draw.
Historic buildings from Cardiff’s industrial era like the pilotage office, pierhead building, coal exchange and Norwegian church still exist amid the more modern developments and walking the entire length of the barrage, with the city skyline on one side and the Bristol Channel on the other is a lovely way to spend time in the open air.
Half an hour on foot in the other direction from the city centre is the sought-after suburb of Pontcanna, where you’ll find a concentration of welcoming pubs and restaurants, including a handful of the best you’ll find in Wales all within a 10-minute walk of each other. The well-heeled Cathedral Road is a lovely street to stroll down, where the large three-storey houses remind you of the city’s historic wealth.
Food and drink
Speaking of food and drink, Cardiff has seen a revolution in this area in recent years. Lamented as recently as 10 years ago by a leading food critic as a city with a desolate food scene (he even said the best place to go for food was Cardiff Central so you could catch a train to Bristol), that is a hot take not even the most cynical of critics could claim today. There are superb places to eat in the city centre and every suburb, ranging from Michelin-starred to street food.
It’s impossible to mention them all here but here are a few stand-outs (go here for a full list of the 40 best places to eat in the city). In Pontcanna, Gorse won a Michelin star within a few months of opening, becoming the city’s first restaurant to ever get a star. Practically next door is Thomas, also comfortably one of the best restaurants in the city. And a few doors down you’ll get a great and affordable lunch at Milkwood. A stone’s throw from here is Heaney’s, another extremely accomplished restaurant serving impeccable food, and Sonder, a friendly, neighbourhood restaurant with a fine lunch and dinner menu.
In the Rhiwbina area of Cardiff (like Pontcanna, also a place with a small town within a city vibe) you’ll find Mesen, a small plates restaurant specialising in sharing dishes cooked over charcoal where I was served the best-tasting dish I’d eaten in years.
Cardiff’s got a strong Italian restaurant culture. Casanova, Cafe Citta and Bacareto in the city centre are all excellent choices, as is the more informal Calabrisella in Canton. Its Indian restaurants are great too, with Purple Poppadom and Cinnamon Tree among the pick of the bunch.
In the city centre, Pasture serves the best steak in the city, while sister venue Parallel is also brilliant. Asador 44 and its sister restaurant Bar 44, both Spanish-influenced restaurants, are also among the best in the centre. The best food pub is The Heathcock in Llandaff. Speaking of pubs, the best in the city centre are The City Arms and The Old Arcade. You’re also spoilt for choice for trendier bars, like The Dead Canary and secret underground bar Nightshade.
Lastly, Cardiff Market is a brilliant place to try a wide variety of delicious street food, from deep fried gnocchi at Dirty Gnocchi to Keralan fried chicken at Tukka Tuk, pizza at Ffwrnes and Greek wraps at Ya Souvlaki. But don’t miss the Welshcakes, a Welsh classic, at Cardiff Bakestones.
Things to see
While it may not have tourist attractions at the level of London’s Buckingham Palace, Edinburgh’s Castle or Bath’s Roman baths, there are still plenty of attractions well worth a look. Top of the list is Cardiff Castle in the heart of the city. This site has been in use for 2,000 years from Roman soldiers to Norman conquerors and Victorian visionaries – and today you’ll see rock and pop stars performing there. Today it’s a fascinating mix of the Norman keep at its heart (with great views over the city from the top) and the lavishly decorated Gothic revival residence. Its huge, walled outdoor space hosts concerts and festivals.
Across the road from the castle, you’ll find the Principality Stadium, often hailed the best sporting stadium in the world despite being well over 20 years old. The 74,500-seater stadium is where the Wales men’s national rugby team play their home games and there are few experiences on Earth like hearing that crowd sing the Welsh national anthem.
Its position right in the heart of the city makes it a favourite among visiting fans too, who don’t have to find their way to the outskirts of cities as is the case with so many major stadiums. It also hosts concerts from megastars like Taylor Swift, Bruce Springsteen and Oasis.
Cardiff has its fair share of chain stores but its Victorian arcades are a shopping experience not to be missed. Ditch the chains and head into these six beautiful arcades packed with independent shops and places to eat.
On the outskirts of the city, but accessible by bike along the riverside path, the Taff Trail, is Castell Coch (Red Castle) perched among forest on a hill. It’s often called a “fairy tale castle” for its looks, having been built by the third Marquess of Bute, then the world’s richest man. And you shouldn’t miss St Fagans National Museum of History, mentioned above. Just outside the museum, now a field, was the site of the Battle of St Fagans, the last big battle of the long-running English Civil War. Between 300 and 700 people died in the battle.
If you’re willing to travel around 45 minutes out of the city, you’ll find some of the most beautiful scenery Wales has to offer, from the country’s second highest mountain at Pen-y-Fan in the Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons) National Park to the Jurassic coast at beaches like Southerndown and Monknash.
Culture and history
First things first: Cardiff is the capital of Wales so you are in a country with a culture and language that is distinct from the rest of the UK. You’ll hear plenty of Welsh being spoken and lots of signs are bilingual. It’s also a very friendly city – in 2023, Cardiff was ranked the UK’s friendliest city in a reader survey by popular travel magazine Condé Nast.
The city’s history is fascinating. If you arrive by train into the city’s central train station, you won’t see the sea at all. But, incredibly, this is where the sea used to reach at high tide and buildings here were once swept away by a storm (and possibly even a tsunami) in the 17th century. If you find yourself walking along the city centre Westgate Street, you might be staggered to learn that this street was once the River Taff before its direction was forcibly changed by the engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel. Large ships would dock here and there is a mid-19th century record of a fisherman catching a salmon near where the Royal Hotel is today.
If you do happen to call into Cardiff Market for a bite to eat, bear in mind that where you’re enjoying your slice of pizza is where people were hanged and burned at the stake. And if you walk the path that runs from the back entrance of Cardiff Market to Working Street, look down and you’ll see numbers on the paving slabs. The numbers refer to burial vaults underneath the ground. The path was built right through the church graveyard so people could access the market easily, gaining the nickname ‘Dead Man’s Alley’. For more on Cardiff’s history, go here.
Places to stay
As a large city, you’re not short of places to stay in Cardiff so this is just a short selection of hotels. Voco St David’s Cardiff is a luxury hotel and spa located right on the waterfront of Cardiff Bay and within walking distance of the Wales Millennium Centre.
The city’s newest luxury hotel is the Parkgate Hotel, right in the city centre, has a range of opulent rooms and suites and a sophisticated restaurant and bar. The Angel Hotel is a classic Victorian building in the city centre. And there are plenty of popular and reliable chains like Marriott, Leonardo and Hilton.
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